Vintage Japanese Obi - 1

         From the collection of Marla Mallett: Textiles

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Shown on these pages are several early Japanese obi--most from the famous Nishijin weaving district in Kyoto. It was here that elaborate silk brocades were produced on complex draw looms from the 15th century on. In the last part of the 19th century, in the Meiji period,  jacquard loom attachments were introduced, and even more complex fabrics became fashionable.  Obi with lavish use of gold and silver threads became important kimono accessories; these long sumptuous sashes were often given more attention than the kimono themselves. They were frequently more expensive. The most highly regarded were woven in complex brocade weaves, as represented in the selection on these pages. 

Maru
obi were the most formal, and were popular in the early 1900s.  They were patterned throughout on both sides, and because of both their stiffness and exorbitant cost, they  gradually were replaced with other styles.  Sometimes these obi can be opened for display, if desired, making a piece double the width, though normally traces of a fold line remain.

Fukuro obi were slightly less formal, and first appeared in the late 1920s. Because only one side was brocaded or carried other complex jacquard patterning, they were less bulky to wear than maru obi.  The elaborate decoration sometimes covered the full front length, but more often covered only about 60 percent of the piece, appearing again at the far end for a few inches. The plain section was not seen when the obi was worn. 

Nagoya obi were first produced in the city of Nagoya in the 1920s. A portion of this kind of obi is pre-folded and stitched in half. The narrow part wraps around the waist, while the wider length forms the bow in back. 

Westerners have found multiple ways to display these luxurious textiles. They are easy to hang over a rod for a wall decoration.  They make fabulous table runners, or runners for credenzas.  

To see large detail photos of the obi below, click on the inventory numbers. To see a variety of Japanese kimono, click here.  Or go to Japanese Textiles for embroideries, fukasa, futonji and other objects.   


Shigemasa, late 18th century       
 






The man in black kimono is weaving on a draw loom, while his young assistant perched above pulls strings to open the various complex pattern sheds. This is the kind of loom used until the Meiji period for lavish brocades and other complex weaves. In the late 19th  century jacquard attachments replaced the small assistants,  although the weave structures remained the same.  Kano Yoshinobu, 16th century. 


Japanese Maru Obi
Meiji, circa 1900
12½"x 154"
Silk brocading
K-7893


Japanese Fukuro Obi
Mid 1980s
11½"x 156"
Decorated section: 11½"x 101"
Gold and silk brocading
K-7890

Japanese Fukuro Obi
Mid 1980s
11½"x 160"
Decorated section:  11½"x 100"
Gold and silver-blue metallic brocading
on silk satin
K-7891

 


Japanese Fukuro Obi with Noh Mask
1920s
12"x 157"
Silk/metallic lamé with silk embroidery, 
silk brocade and surihaku appliqué
K-5893

Japanese Maru Obi
Circa 1920
12½"x 149
Silk and gold metallic brocading on silk
K-7631
  Japanese Fukuro Obi
1980s
12"x 161"
Decorated section: 12"x 101"
Silk and metallic brocading on
ro silk
K-7742
 
Japanese Maru Wedding Obi
1980s
10 1/4"x 162"
Silk damask
K-7752
  Japanese Fukuro Obi
Mid 1930s or early 1940s
12"x 162"
Decorated section: 12"x 105"
Silk with gold and silver brocading
K-8070
 
Japanese Maru Obi
Circa 1900
12½"x 152½"
Silk brocading on silk
K-7103
 
Japanese Maru Obi
1930s
12½"x160½"
Silk, gold and silver brocading on
ro
silk.
K-7662
Japanese Fukuro Obi
Taisho, 1912-1920
12"x 165"
Decorated section: 12"x 103"
Gold and silver brocading on
sheer ramie (?)
K-7740

Japanese Fukuro Obi
1950s
12"x 161"
Decorated section:  12"x 96½"
Gold, silver and silk brocading
K-5583
 
Japanese Maru Obi
1980s
10 ¼"x 154"
Silver brocade
K-7756
  Japanese Fukuro Obi
1950s
12"x 166"
Decorated section:  12"x 98"
Silk and metallic brocading on silk satin
K-7849
  Japanese Fukuro Obi
1980s
11½"x 141"
Decorated section:  11½"x 80½"
Silk brocade, with silk and metallic brocaded panels
K-7850


Japanese Fukuro Obi
Mid 1960s
12"x 160" 
Decorated section: 100"
Silk and metallic brocading. 
K-4103


Japanese Maru Obi
1980s
10¼"x 157"
Gold metallic brocading on silk
K-7754


Japanese Fukuro Obi
1950s
11 3/4" x 150"
Decorated section: 90½"
Silk and metallic brocading on silk
K-7594


Japanese Fukuro Obi
1970s
12"x 169"
Decorated section: 12"x 106"
Silk and silver brocading on silk
K-7820


Japanese Fukuro Obi
1950s.
12"x 170"
Decorated section: 12"x 100"
Silk and metallic brocading
K-5582


Japanese Maru Obi
Circa 1900
12½"x 159"
Silk and gold metallic brocading
K-7855


Japanese Fukuro Obi
Mid 1950s
12"x 171"
Decorated section:  12"x 104½"
Silk and silver brocading on silver lamé
K-7824


Japanese Fukuro Obi
1980s.
12"x 156"
Decorated section: 12"x 98"
Silk, gold and silver brocading on gold lamé
K-7664

Continue:

Japanese Obi - 2

More obis appear on the Collectors' Page




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MARLA MALLETT
1690 Johnson Road NE
Atlanta GA  30306   USA

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