Vintage Japanese Obi - 1

         From the collection of Marla Mallett

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Shown on these pages are several early Japanese obi--most from the famous Nishijin weaving district in Kyoto. It was here that elaborate silk brocades were produced on complex draw looms from the 15th century on. In the last part of the 19th century, in the Meiji period,  jacquard loom attachments were introduced, and even more complex fabrics became fashionable.  Obi with lavish use of gold and silver threads became important kimono accessories; these long sumptuous sashes were often given more attention than the kimono themselves. They were frequently more expensive. The most highly regarded were woven in complex brocade weaves, as represented in the selection on these pages. 

Maru obi were the most formal, and were popular in the early 1900s.  They were patterned throughout on both sides, and because of both their stiffness and exorbitant cost, they  gradually were replaced with other styles.  Sometimes these obi can be opened for display, if desired, making a piece double the width, though normally traces of a fold line remain.

Fukuro obi were slightly less formal, and first appeared in the late 1920s. Because only one side was brocaded or carried other complex jacquard patterning, they were less bulky to wear than maru obi.  The elaborate decoration sometimes covered the full front length, but more often covered only about 60 percent of the piece, appearing again at the far end for a few inches. The plain section was not seen when the obi was worn. 

Nagoya obi were first produced in the city of Nagoya in the 1920s. A portion of this kind of obi is pre-folded and stitched in half. The narrow part wraps around the waist, while the wider length forms the bow in back. 

Westerners have found multiple ways to display these luxurious textiles. They are easy to hang over a rod for a wall decoration.  They make fabulous table runners, or runners for credenzas.  

To see large detail photos of the obi below, click on the inventory numbers. To see a variety of Japanese kimono, click here.  Or go to Japanese Textiles for embroideries, fukasa, futonji and other objects.   


Shigemasa, late 18th century       
 



The man in black kimono is weaving on a draw loom, while his young assistant perched above pulls strings to open the various complex pattern sheds. This is the kind of loom used until the Meiji period for lavish brocades and other complex weaves. In the late 19th  century jacquard attachments replaced the small assistants,  although the weave structures remained the same.  Kano Yoshinobu, 16th century. 


Japanese Maru Obi
Meiji period.  Circa 1900
12"x 156"
Silk, with silk and gold brocading.
K-8036


Japanese Maru Obi
Meiji period, 1900-1912.
12½"x 155"
Silk, with silk and gold brocading.
K-8742


Japanese Fukuro Obi
1970s
12"x 169"
Decorated section: 12"x 106"
Silk and silver brocading on silk.
K-7820


Japanese Maru Obi
Meiji Period, circa 1900.
12"x 148"
Silk brocading.
K-5960


Japanese Maru Obi
12"x 161"
Silk, with gold, silver and silk
brocading.
K-8745


Japanese Fukuro Obi
Mid 1980s
11½"x 156"
Decorated section: 11½"x 101"
Gold and silk brocading.
K-7890

Japanese Maru Obi
 1910-1920
12"x 154"
Silk satin with gold and silk brocading.
K-8618
 
Japanese Maru Obi
1920s or 1930s.
12½"x 159"
Silk, brocaded with silk.
K-8743
 
Japanese Maru Obi
1930s
12½"x160½"
Silk, gold and silver brocading on
ro silk.
K-7662
 
Japanese Obi
12½"x 160"
Rinzu silk with stenciling with silk and gold embroidery.
K-8538
 
Japanese Maru Obi
 Meijji period, c. 1900.
12"x 148½"
Silk brocading.
K-8068
 
Japanese Maru Wedding Obi
1980s
10 1/4"x 162"
Silk damask.
K-7752
 
Japanese Maru Obi
Circa 1920
12½"x 149"
Silk and gold metallic brocading on silk.
K-7631
 
Japanese Han Haba Obi
1950s
8½"x 132½"
Silk and metallic brocade.
K-8594


Japanese Maru Obi
1980s
10¼"x 157"
Gold metallic brocading on silk.
K-7754


Japanese Maru Obi
12½"x 163"
Silk brocading on silk.
K-8740


Japanese Maru Obi
Meiji period, 1900-1912.
12"x 156"
Silk and silver brocading on ro silk.
K-8744


Japanese Maru Obi
Meiji period, 1880-1890. Kyoto
12"x 158"
Silk satin brocade.
K-4315


Japanese Maru Obi
Meiji period, Circa 1900. 
13¼"x 159"
Silk satin with silk brocading.
K-8746



Japanese Fukuro Obi
12"x 161"
Decorated section:  100½"
Gold lamé with gold, silver and silk
brocading.
K-8620
 


Japanese Fukuro Obi
1950s
11 3/4" x 150"
Decorated section: 90½"
Silk and metallic brocading on silk.
K-7594


Japanese Maru Obi
Meiji period, c. 1900
13"x 158"
Silk brocade.
K-8074


Japanese Fukuro Obi
12"x 165"
Decorated section: 12"x 108"
Silk, with silk and gold brocading.
K-8741


Japanese Fukuro Obi
12"x 166"
Decorated section:  104"
Silk satin with gold, silver and silk
brocading.
K-8622

Continue:

Japanese Obi - 2


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