Coptic Textiles
Tapestry Fragments from Late Antiquity	HOME

Indigenous Egyptian weavers during the Late Roman and Early Byzantine eras produced amazingly intricate textile art. Most of the small tapestry and soumak fragments on this page originally decorated tunics or 'dalmatics' and were woven in wool or a combination of linen and wool. Because they were preserved in graves under extremely dry, sandy conditions, these fragments are among the earliest textiles available to collectors, as they date from the 4th through 8th centuries. They incorporate a variety of design influences, from Greco-Roman mythology to Christian symbolism. Delicate geometric interlace motifs may have been intended to protect the wearer from the 'evil eye,' while plants, animals, birds, and human figures provide charming naive decoration. The nearly monochromatic coloring of the 1500- to 1600-year-old tapestries differs from slightly later work that uses a wider range of hues. The single wool color in most of the earliest pieces was originally a dark brownish purple--the 'royal purple' of antiquity--and in most has now faded to brown. The plain-weave tunic grounds were most often natural-colored linen. Typical tunic decoration consisted of narrow bands that extended downwards from the shoulders, pairs of bands on the sleeves, and square, oval or round tapestry inserts on the shoulders and lower front. It is fragments of these elaborate bands and inserts that have survived.  A few of the fragments originally decorated curtains, wall hangings, or shawls.  Please realize that the dates listed below are only educated guesses. The pieces are unmounted, and furnished in acid-free plastic sleeves.  Click on the inventory numbers below to see larger photos of the textiles.  On monitors with a 1024 x 768 resolution, actual-size photos will appear on the individual linked pages, along with magnified versions or details.

Coptic Tunic Insertion Egypt 5th to 6th century Linen and wool. 10.7 cm x 11 cm. Slit tapestry C-113

Coptic Roundel Tunic Insertion Egypt.  6th to 7th century Wool and linen.  13 cm. x 12 cm. Slit tapestry and soumak C-108

Coptic Tunic Decoration Egypt 5th to 6th century Wool and linen. 10 cm. x 9.5 cm. Slit tapestry C-102

Coptic Tunic Band Egypt 5th to 6th century Wool and linen 8.5 cm. x 24 cm. Slit tapestry C-133

Coptic Tunic Clavus Fragment Egypt. 6th to 7th century Wool and linen 7.5 cm. x 17.5 cm. Slit tapestry C-124

Coptic Tunic Ornament Egypt. 5th to 6th century Wool and linen 9.5 cm. x 12.5 cm. Slit tapestry and soumak C-126

Coptic Clavus Fragment Egypt.  5th to 6th century Wool and linen. 10 cm. x 34.5 cm. Slit tapestry  C-135   Coptic Tunic Fragments Egypt.  5th to 7th century Wool and linen  6 cm. x 24 cm.; 4 cm. x 4 cm.; 4 cm. x 4.5 cm. Slit tapestry C-143

Coptic Tunic or Shawl   Band Egypt 6th to 7th century Wool. 10 cm. x 22 cm. Slit tapestry C-134

Coptic Tunic Insertion Egypt. 6th to 7th century Wool and linen 9.5 cm. x 8.5 cm. Slit tapestry C-101

Coptic Tunic Decoration Egypt 5th to 6th century Wool and linen.  14 cm. x 25 cm. Tapestry and soumak C-145

Among the many publications devoted to Coptic textiles, the following give good coverage to Late Roman/Early Byzantine pieces such as those above: James Trilling, The Roman Heritage: Textiles from Egypt and the Eastern Mediterranean 300 to 600 AD, Washington, 1982. Diane Lee Carroll, Looms and Textiles of the Copts, Seattle, 1988). Ludmila Kybalova, Coptic Textiles, London, 1967. Marie-Helene Rutschowscaya, Coptic Fabrics, Paris, 1990.